HHO Fuel Glossary
Note: this is a work in progress, feel free to inform me of suggested inclusions, errors, suggested links, and such. Many definitions are taken from Wikipedia, footnotes may be linked to a wikipedia page. Hopefully in alphabetical order now.
Amps: is a unit of electric current, or amount of electric charge per second. The ampere is an SI base unit, and is named after André-Marie Ampère, one of the main discoverers of electromagnetism.
Baking Soda: Sodium bicarbonate or sodium hydrogen carbonate is the chemical compound with the formula NaHCO3. Above 60 °C (140F), it gradually decomposes into sodium carbonate, water and carbon dioxide. The conversion is fast at 200 °C (392F)
Browns Gas: Oxyhydrogen gas produced in a common-ducted electrolyzer has been referred to as “Brown’s gas”,after Yull Brown who received a utility patent for a series cell common-ducted electrolyzer in 1977 and 1978 (the term “Brown’s gas” is not used in his patents, but “a mixture of oxygen and hydrogen” is referenced).[8][10] Brown’s torches also used an electric arc to increase the temperature of the flame (called atomic welding):[8]
Bubbler: is a simple flashback device, used to prevent the burning gas from entering the HHO gas generating chamber and creating an explosion. The device by design can itself explode the quantity of gas in the head space above the water, destroying the bubbler, spreading the diluted catalyst and shrapnel from the container. For safety, reduce the head space to the bare minimum needed, change the water on some schedule to prevent the catalyst becoming strong enough to create chemical burns.
Catalyst : is a chemical compound that acts to speed up a reaction, but in the process is not itself changed. Therefore the catalyst, at the end of the reaction, is free to act again to assist another reactant through the reaction.
Catalysts work by lowering the energy barrier between the reactants and the products. In this case:
2H2O + ENERGY = 2H2 + O2
where it normally takes a tremendous amount of energy to convert reactants to products – the addition of a catalyst can decrease the amount of energy required and therefore speed the reaction up!
2H2O + CATALYST+ energy = 2H2 + O2 + CATALYST
Cell: is a device used for generating an electromotive force (voltage) and current from chemical reactions. In HHO production the cell is very similar to a battery cell, except instead of producing electricity, it produces HHO. Many Shapes and Styles are in use, many actually look like a multi cell battery. In fact most cells using catalyst will show a degrading voltage across the terminals when power is removed.
Check Valve: Limits the flow of gas to one direction only. Use a check valve between the bubbler and generator to prevent unwanted pressure build up in the generator, and a safety against a low level bubbler. A check valve, such as used on torches, is recommended. Many homemade ones are being designed for hobbyists to build. Many are available at welding supply houses.
Cubic Foot: is an imperial and US customary (non-metric) unit of volume, used in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom. It is defined as the volume of a cube with sides of one foot (0.3048 m) in length. 1 cubic ft = 28.316846592 liters
flashback device: A device that prevents a flame front from returning to the source of gas and causing an explosion. example: like a torch flame traveling down the acetylene or Oxygen hose to the tank and igniting the tank of fuel.
HHO: is a mixture of hydrogen (H2) and oxygen (O2) gases, typically in a 2:1 atomic ratio, the same proportion as water.[1] This gaseous mixture is widely used for torches for the processing of refractory materials.
HHO will combust when brought to its autoignition temperature. For a stoichiometric mixture at normal atmospheric pressure, autoignition occurs at about 570 °C (1065 °F).[2] The minimum energy required to ignite such a mixture with a spark is about 20 microjoules.[2] At normal temperature and pressure, oxyhydrogen can burn when it is between about 4% and 94% hydrogen by volume.[2] Abbreviation for Hydrogen Hydrogen Oxygen, which is what water (H2O) is broken down into.
HFE: Hydrogen Fuel Enhancement, Newer term for HHO
Joule: is the SI unit of energy measuring heat, electricity and mechanical work. It was named after English physicist James Prescott Joule.
KOH: potassium hydroxide, sometimes known as caustic potash, It is very alkaline and is a “strong base”. The dissolution in water is strongly exothermic, producing substantial amounts of energy in form of heat, leading to temperature rise, sometimes up to boiling point and over; concentrated aqueous solutions are called potassium lyes. As a very strong base/alkali, potassium hydroxide is strongly corrosive, both towards inorganic as well as organic materials, including living tissues; care must be therefore taken, when handling the substance and its solutions. Its corrosivity is sometimes used in cleaning and disinfection of resistant surfaces and materials.[5]
Liter: international unit of volume is the cubic metre (m3). One liter is equal to 0.001 cubic metre and is denoted as 1 cubic decimetre (dm3).
millilitre: defined as one-thousandth of a liter (one cubic centimetre)
NaOH: Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye, caustic soda, is a caustic metallic base. Sodium hydroxide forms a strong alkaline solution when dissolved in a solvent such as water. It is used in many industries, mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner. It is deliquescent and readily absorbs carbon dioxide from the air, so it should be stored in an airtight container. It is very soluble in water with liberation of heat.
OrthoHydrogen: spin isomers of Hydrogen
Oxyhydrogen: is a mixture of hydrogen (H2) and oxygen (O2) gases, typically in a 2:1 atomic ratio, the same proportion as water.[1] This gaseous mixture is widely used for torches for the processing of refractory materials.
Oxyhydrogen will combust when brought to its autoignition temperature. For a stoichiometric mixture at normal atmospheric pressure, autoignition occurs at about 570 °C (1065 °F).[2] The minimum energy required to ignite such a mixture with a spark is about 20 microjoules.[2] At normal temperature and pressure, oxyhydrogen can burn when it is between about 4% and 94% hydrogen by volume.[2]
Parahydrogen: spin isomers of Hydrogen
PWM: Pulse Width Modulator, from what I understand it hammers the cell with square wave pulses of DC current allowing HHO to be made with pure distilled water with no catalyst, although some still use a small amount.
Salt: composed primarily of sodium chloride, with the formula NaCl. elemental chlorine is usually produced by the electrolysis of sodium chloride dissolved in water. Along with chlorine, this chloralkali process yields hydrogen gas and sodium hydroxide, according to the chemical equation
2NaCl + 2H2O → Cl2 + H2 + 2NaOH
Chlorine It has a disagreeable, suffocating odor that is detectable in concentrations as low as 3.5 ppm[1] and is poisonous. This should be avoided as a catalyst completely just for personal safety.
Sodium carbonate: also know as soda ash, sal soda etc is an excellent electrolyte or catalyst can be bought in laundry section (sal soda, washing soda) and in spa/pool stores for decreasing ph. It also doesnt corrode the anodes.
Sulphuric Acid: is a strong mineral acid with the molecular formula H2SO4. It is soluble in water at all concentrations. Some common concentrations are
- 10%, dilute sulfuric acid for laboratory use,
- 33.5%, battery acid (used in lead-acid batteries),
- 62.18%, chamber or fertilizer acid,
- 77.67%, tower or Glover acid,
- 98%, concentrated acid.
The hydration reaction of sulfuric acid is highly exothermic. If water is added to the concentrated sulfuric acid, it can react, boil and spit dangerously. One should always add the acid to the water rather than the water to the acid. Sulfuric acid reacts with most metals via a single displacement reaction to produce hydrogen gas and the metal sulfate. Dilute H2SO4 attacks iron, aluminium, zinc, manganese, magnesium and nickel, but reactions with tin and copper require the acid to be hot and concentrated. Lead and tungsten, however, are resistant to sulfuric acid.
Tartric Acid: is a white crystalline organic acid. It occurs naturally in many plants, particularly grapes, bananas, and tamarinds, and is one of the main acids found in wine. It is added to other foods to give a sour taste, and is used as an antioxidant. Salts of tartaric acid are known as tartrates. It is a dihydroxy derivative of succinic acid.
This is my recommended favorite, use 1/4 tsp per gallon of water (Cream of Tarter). This makes tartaric acid . It will double your amps and production and has no harmful deposits like sulfur or calcium to do damage to the engine or the cell.
Vinegar: is a liquid processed from the fermentation of ethanol in a process that yields its key ingredient, acetic acid. The acetic acid concentration typically ranges from 4 to 8 percent by volume for table vinegar [1] (typically 5%) and higher concentrations for pickling (up to 18%). Natural vinegars also contain small amounts of tartaric acid, citric acid, and other acids. Commercial vinegar available to consumers for household use does not exceed 5% and solutions above 10% need careful handling since they are corrosive and damaging to skin. Stronger solutions (i.e., greater than 5%) that are labeled for use as herbicides are available from some retailers.
Volts: is the SI derived unit of electric potential difference or electromotive force.[1][2] It is named in honor of the Lombard physicist Alessandro Volta (1745–1827), who invented the voltaic pile, the first modern chemical battery
Watt: is the SI derived unit of power, equal to one joule of energy per second. It measures a rate of energy use or production.
Would like to view an auto that is using hho tech sucessfully. I live in the tTexoma area. S. OK Durant, to N TX Sherman. Do you know of anyone?
Would a lawn mower do instead, thats what I have converted so far?
As for cars, there seem to be many claims, but very few vids or pics of them. Seems the vids and pics prove nothing, so its said. I could put my Rav4 in a vid and make all kinds of claims, but what could I show that would convince a viewer that its getting say 40+mpg? the canister bolted in? the vinyl tubes?
my written mileage records? See the problem, its like proving big foot exists, even with pics of it.
I feel it would take witness’ that could examine the system, check mileage like they do on Mythbusters, then provide notarized reports with signatures.
Maybe we should put together a loose group, covering all areas of the nation, not to debunk, but help provide proof that it does work. I’d travel a couple hundred miles to examine and test a unit, to prove it worked.
It doesnt matter if you believe that adding hho to your vehicle as a combustible will save gas or not. Most of the time, these people are not trying to sell you something, rather, they are sharing the knowledge of how to build these cells and how to save you some spare change. It does work, I have proven that it does on 1 of my vehicles so far and am working on my second hho cell. Im building it myself from and buying the parts around town. I dont need to buy plans from anyone, or buy a already built kit, the information is out here on the net. It isnt anyones responsibility to prove anything to you. Sticking your head in the dirt and refusing to learn anything new is your choice.
Carl,
Would you care to add some design data such as cell type, amps, output, mpg gain, type of car to the HFE Cells in Use
This are very informative details for anyone who is too new to the whole technology off running ca and other fuel driven machinery on hho.
I have recorded some test results for the same on my website.
Thanks
Saini
Hi prabhat,
I am not here to just sell HFE products, and initially was only interested because I drive 108 miles a day.
I work in custom fabrication and have great resources for all kinds of materials and Laser work.
Through my experiments and extensive research I have designed a plate style electrode thats using 316L S.S.
I have been selling these to people I work with and they all are reporting 4 to 8 mpg gains.
I have one installed on my 2000 Buick Century and am seeing anywhere from 4 to 15 mpg increases.
I calculate mileage by tank so I know what I’m actually averaging.
I try to keep the generator under 10 amps. as I believe this is where my best gains occur.
I am producing just over 1-1/2 liter per minute.
I have run the generator at 13 amps cold 16 hot and do not see any more improvement in mpg if anything I believe my mileage drops, which leads me to believe that the more amps. you pull the harder the engine has to work.
Due to the alternator working harder, so you end up voiding out your gains.
I seal all the edges of my charge plates so the HHO is only being produced from the plates surface.
The plates are gapped at 1/8″ apart and configured -n+n-n+n- I have tried +n-n+n-n+ but tend to get better results with the three negs. versus the three pos.
As I have an EFIE enhancer I do not see where it helps.
so I am sticking to the extenders because I do see a substanial gain in mileage with these.
I have had this car for 5 years and was completely tuned up plugs, wires, and coils. about a year ago.
Yesterday my wife an I drove it 111 miles after topping off the tank until I could not put any more gas in it without overflowing.
I had just reached the full mark on my gauge on level ground. I refueled till it would not take another drop it only took 3 gallons exactly. so 111 miles divided by 3 = 37mpg the best I ever used to get on this vehicle was 29 maybe 30 mpg.
So there is no question that the HHO has increased my mileage.
My drive to work and back is 108 miles with long hills both ways as well as city driving which has twenty red lights from one end to the other. In the morning I usually only catch 5 or 6 of these lights but my ride home I catch all but 3 or4 of these lights becase more traffic and my average mpg by same method above is 34mpg to 35 mpg and have seen 40 mpg and sometimes better.
I believe it is because of head winds or tail winds, alsot raffic interruptions from other vehicles.
I am only using distilled water and between 1/2 and 1 teaspoon pure baking soda.
Do you know of any better results with higher amperage rates as I can produce 30 + if it would be beneficial.
I have researched the 2000 Buick Century and there are reports that people cannot get it to get better MPG with HHE systems although I do.
I do not use a bubbler I have a check valve on each side of the generator, both only letting HHO out for safety of over pressue and flash back.
I am pulling my power from my windshield wiper motor which only gets power when the key is in the second position or the car running.
Everything else on the vehicle is stock from the manufactrer less tune up and new O2 sensor.
What is the optimum amps. for HHO production?
As I hear something different from eveyone.
any feed back would be greatly appreciated and I will continue to share with you my results. Also you con visit my web site @ hhttp://hydro-extra.webs.com as I am upgrading all the time.
I did some checking on the 2000 Buick Century, seems it only has an O2 sensor, and reviews from edmunds.com the owners report getting from 30-35mpg on the highway at 60mph. mileage does drop with age due to normal wear and tear, also a deteriorated O2 sensor will reduce mileage.
I’m just guessing but I’m thinking the EFFI cant help if the O2 sensor is running rich all the time or isnt operating properly because of age. Try installing a new one, get a new base test mpg, try without the efie, and then with it and see if it helps. It cant hurt the mpg with a new O2 sensor.
Also, it’s been found that a back flash cant always be stopped by a check valve, and a bubbler is recommended, the check valves are generally to help control direction of gas flow, unless your using check valves intended for use on gas torches (really expensive). Add some SS steel or brass steel wool to the top of a bubbler near the outlet, it serves 2 purposes, smooths out the gas flow, and another backflash preventer.
keep up the work and knowledge sharing
Just returned from a 228 mile (one way) trip to a relative’s funeral, during which I got fifty-two (52) mpg on the first leg with my 2001 Corolla. I usually get forty mpg (driving 55 mph). On the return leg, though, the converter suddenly stopped working. My tests upon reaching home confirmed that – no HHO production at all, even now that I’ve changed electrolyte. Electrical circuits are all fine, fourteen volts between the converter poles, and amperage measured at the battery is five volts with the electrolyute I used to replace the stuff used on the trip. The replacement electrolyte is a two percent solution of caustic soda electrolyte. I’m giving up for the day, but in the AM, I’ll start seeing if I can learn what happened.
By the way, does anyone know what the red stuff in the electrolyte is? I’m assuming rust, but . . .
Hal,
Great mileage! Love to hear it!
red in electrolyte is rust,
you say 5 volts, I assume you mean 5 amps at battery.
Is that what is was in the beginning?
What type of cell, wire, plates, tube?
Just a guess at this time, but you may have a lower quality SS that put a layer of rust on one side of the plates, effectively stopping electrolysis, but still drawing power. simple cleaning, try using vinegar instead, OR
Just read an article that claims there is a layer of electrons that builds up against the plate, of opposite polarity, (the reason behind pulsed DC PWM’s) and it can ’stick’ in any coating on the plate such as rust or sulphur, effectively cutting production until is cleaned.
Using battery acid, I wouldn’t recommend now because of sulphur build up and disposal.
The idea of the electrolyte is to get a high electron potential before current is applied, but a low or neutral PH ( to prevent corrosion). If you come up with a electrolyte that stops this problem from reoccuring definetly let us all know.