Each week a post containing full description of a cell type with operational parameters including HHO production will be featured on this page.
This is the HFE cell I’ve settled on for my cars, I’m in the process of building it at this time, but thought I’d share the plans.
Its a Dry Cell, meaning its not immersed in the catalyst, has a smaller size, and seems to have eliminated the edge voltage leaking typical with plate cells. It has a refill tank, so it should be easier to maintain and cool.
Dry cells are smaller than normal immersed cells
Click to open the .pdf, right click to save the pic
See these videos about dry cells
Dry Cell Data
Dry Cell Production
I have a dry cell extremely similar to your featured HFE unit that I’ve just this week installed. My plates config is as follows: +N-NN+N-NN+N- I first used baking soda for the electrolyte and it boiled the HHO off like crazy then quit working altogether. I disassembled the unit and cleaned the plates then changed to distilled vinegar and distilled water 1:1 ratio. Not nearly as good of HHO production but worked yesterday. Today checked the unit after a 19 mile drive and no HHO being produced. Any suggestions as to what might be going on???? Please help, I’ve bragged about putting this thing on my ‘03 Tahoe and am afraid I’m simply gonna be stuck with a non working unit and a red face….!!
My son has been working on several different fuel cell designs all using baking soda. I suggested that he use lye instead, having learned that the HHO production is far greater with lye than with baking soda. Another advantage being that far less lye is needed than baking soda to produce an adequate boil. We literally used less than a 1/16th of a teaspoon in a quart of H20 and got about double the production. Initially we counted out 5 actual granules of lye, added them to the water, and slowly added more until we achieved the desired affect. Hope this helps.
How about that, it’s lye that comes in granules. I think lye is actually sodium hydroxide and is definately better than baking soda, sodium bicarbonate. Actually I found another alkali that’s even better and it’s potassium hydroxide, If you research this you will find it has more electrons than sodium and puts it more on the metallic side of the fence with more free electrons to help electrolyze more HHO from water. Good luck.
I am interested in building a dry cell unit like this, but I cannot find anyone who actually shows or gives a precise description of the hole configuration on the plates themselves for the water and gas flow. Thanks, Steve
6cstevec,
go to hfecell.info this new site is easier to find the information on, the attachments and file downloads cant be seen unless you register, free, and the same or better info.
The pdf gives a basic dry cell assembly and construction, you just take your available materials and make changes that will work with what you have or can buy. The fill & gas holes are important as to their placement, top for gas, bottom for fill, DUH! you say, well a centered hole along a flat top line will cause gas to cover a top portion of the plates, reducing effective production area, while gas fills the area looking for an escape. Place the holes so that rising gas finds the hole easily.
The seals or gaskets should be as narrow as possible so they cover the least amount of plate area, again you dont want to cover gas production area unnecessarily.
You can place bolt holes in the plates and seals to keep everything aligned, and insulated, but they take up precious plate area too. Placing bolts alongside the plates with insulator covering takes more planning, and can help align the plates if placed correctly, and close enough to the seals and plates.
My design in the pdf isn’t the only shape to use, look at it, redesign it, improve it, it’s your skills that determine the final outcome.
I’m running a similar one, with a +-+- config using 22 plates, with 1/32 gasket material from Advanced Auto Parts and .010 SS from Fastenal (302 SS, the same material as on your car for SS parts), and end frame plates from scrap 1/2″ Acrylic material from our local hockey arena. It pulls 45A in brute force using tap water, and puts out 2 l/min. The reservoir is a 2 gal lawn tractor gas tank with added fittings and internal bubbler.
The electric connections can be a problem, but with a little fore thought yo can adapt them any way you want and with many different type connectors. My first one, I used as a last resort, because I didn’t think that part thru, 14 gauge wire, wrapped (zig zaged) around the terminals in a figure 8 pattern, with a connector for power, soldered to the ss, and yes I know ss doesn’t soldier, but the soldier does stick to the copper and flows thru the holes I drilled in the tabs to make secure connections.
Hope this helps.
reply to: tncajunnuke, on September 25th, 2008 at 7:29 am
connections mast be at serial not parallel,
i had the same problem before, now its work at very low temperature.
Hallo dear,
Please see my webs for detail HHO wet sell and dry cell, All Hydrogen generator no Need any chemical just tap water or destile water, Just need 12VDC 15A can produce 2000 cc/minute , controlling by linad technology, not like Stanly Mayer.
Please send me your web links thanks.
interested in the no chemical HHo unit please advise