Has anyone tried a wire wound cell?
One that is made from SS wire wrapped around some insulating core.
I know water4gas is of this type, but what about multiple layers of winding?
Would this place a magnetic field in the cell?
Should they all be wound the direction, or opposite directions?
I have a suspicion after observing the Joe cell’s operation and the cone cell operation that somehow a magnetic field helps the process just as having fluid motion cleans the bubbles off the plates faster, and production increases.
Filed under: Cell Type | Tagged: cone cell, hho, joe cell, magnetism, wire wound cell |
HHO Fuel 
What helps is not submerging your coils or plates completely in the fluid. This causes loss as current not used in gas production leaks around the edges. If you want a highly efficient system then you’ll design it so there are no exposed edges between plates that are suspended in solution.
For more information please read my blog, I’ll be coming out with more posts on the subject.
http://Blog.SethEden.com
Cheers
~Seth
I just built a three coil wire wound cell, it uses about 15 feet of wire for each pos-neg side, its .060 306L SS, the output is very fast startup,and only 5.8 amps @ 12v, output looks to be in the 1/3 liter range, very fine bubbles. The wrap spacing is at 3/8 inch between pos-neg, and 3/8 between coils.used 1/4 tsp lye to 2L water. I think, now I’ll move spacing to 3/16 between wraps, and coils, maybe add a coil or 2, should double or better the surface area. if my calcs correct it has now 33.9972 sgin of surface now.
I have just completed a coil type cell, holding 2.2 litres of distilled water, and with a half level teaspoon of caustic soda as catalyst, It is drawing about 10 amps at 24Volts and seems to be producing [roughly 1 liter per minute] well.I was unable to buy the right size wire gauge in 316L stainless as the supplier had run out, so I subdtituted 316 braided SS wire, which seems to be working fine, I dunno for how long it will last, that remains to be seen. I am only using one positive, and one negative wire, and they are both wound in the same direction, with about 1/4″ separation. This cell seems to work like crazy under a vacuum, so I made a venturi to create one on my Toyota 3B diesel.
I have used about 3 metres of wire in total, for both Pos, and neg.
GREAT! love to hear the progress, BUT, what does it draw in the car when only 12v are used? And roughly 1 liter per minute? is that measured or guessed? Is it the same production at 12v? Don’t worry about the life of the 316L SS, when you get results that are saving you money, then go for the longer life and higher cost. I’d even settle for a replaceble cartridge that does the job cheaply.
Roscoe
I am currently testing the unit, and will have better figures for you in the next few days, the initial figures were with a couple of plastic bottles and the production was near enough to a litre a minute, at atmospheric pressure. Although when connected to the venturi on the inlet manifold, production goes wild, I have yet to devise a method of accurately measuring this, ….stay tuned.
I’ve been building hho cells and now am using .094 and .125 thick 316L wire, building wire cells.
water4gas uses .045″…..
as far as magnetism, I don’t think there’s alot of it going on with the wires, unless you get wires inside wires, like the tube cells. the joe cell does the magnetism thing very much so.
think I did a test once and discovered the amps double from 1/2″ spacing to 1/4″ spacing….. also, better efficientcy with using KOH or NaOH electrolyte instead of baking soda….some drain clog removers have NaOH in them, found at lowes or tractor supply stores
LoL, I always get a good laugh when I read “Catalyst” or “Electrolyte”. So many people still haven’t figured out what is really happening after so much time, some years even. The fact is no electrolyte at all. PURE DISTILLED WATER is best. Also, the true adaptation of this technology has nothing to do with creating an electrical load. Adding an electrolyte to your water simply creates better conductivity which in turn creates a greater load since current flows more freely. Finally, the total mass of your cell greatly increases the total load of your cell when using electrolyte.
There are far more reasons to NOT use an electrolyte which include the production of Para-Hydrogen and Para-Oxygen, the production of Sodium Hydroxide and the distribution of ferris particulate from your cell into the water creating greater contamination. So anyone traveling the path of straight DC current through an electrolyte solution is pounding sand. Understand that you are producing garbage and doing nothing at all clever.
So, you want to make water your *DELETED*? Then follow the Stan Meyer patent as close as possible. The key element of the Stan Meyer cell is not the cell itself, it is the electronics!!!!! I’ve constructed cells from all sorts of crap using many types of materials and geometric configurations. Sure, some work better than others, true, but the fact remains that the key to successfully fracturing distilled water is broken down to HIGH FREQUENCY, HIGH VOLTAGE!!
Using a DC motor control which is nothing more than a 555 timer chip and a couple of transistors will produce a square wave, sure. However, you get *DELETED* all for production by using this alone. You have your square wave, but no pulse train. Also, frequency is very important. You need to tune your frequency of the square to 11, 22 or 42Khz. There is no exact frequency, but those will get you in the neighborhood for fine tuning.
Great, you have a solid square wave, now you need to turn that into a pulse train. The only way you can do that is with a GATE control. The gate starts and stops voltage to the PWM and thus, only a small handful of square pulses leave the PWM. This is called the PULSE TRAIN. Once you have the pulse train performing at the proper frequency, you’re getting close.
Now you need to drive that train into the VIC (Voltage Intensifier Circuit). If you skip this step, go pound some more sand. The VIC is the HOLY GRAIL of the technology! First, the pulse train enters the Torroidal transformer. This transformer does two things, a) steps voltage to a higher potential b) chokes current. The torroid, or one of several other types of inductance coil work best. Dave Lawton uses a MOSFET, so yeah, you can save a few bucks and not use a Torroid, if you know what you’re doing.
Now you have a high voltage pulse train that needs to be forced onto your plates, tubes or whatever you’re using for a cell. That’s what the blocking diode and chokes do. I personally use a blocking diode on positive and negative and for my chokes I use torroid inductors. Once you do this, the voltage has nowhere to go except to the cell. When you stack enough potential on the cell it will discharge across the electrodes and massive amounts of gas will be produced. This process happens thousands of times per second and you will know when you have things proper as a white cloud will literally fill your tank.
There is however, an alternative trick that helps for determing when your VIC is getting close. Simply use a 700 to 1200 MFD 125 to 165VAC capacitor at the end of your VIC bridging the +/- leading to your cell. The capacitor does the discharging for you until you can perfect your VIC. This will also greatly reduce your current flow as the capacitor is like a voltage booster.
And don’t start going on about “blah, blah, increasing voltage increases amps”. *DELETED* We’re not working with DC, we’re working with pulsed DC, totally different. Also, anyone about to cry some stupid shit about “You can’t transform DC because transformers only work on AC”, shut*DELETED*. You *DELETED* have never heard of a DC-DC Buck Booster, get a clue *DELETED*. You can do this shit with ICs you *DELETED*.
Please understand that standard electrical and electronic application goes out the god damn window when working with this technology. Yes, the energy has to come from somewhere and NO, this is NOT OVERUNITY. OVERUNITY DOES NOT EXIST!!! What does exist and science is attempting to struggle with is ZPE or otherwise known as dark energy. Tesla knew it, Meyer tapped it and many others are tapping it with other applications. By creating a high potential dipole field, ZPE is being released into the system and fracturing water.
On a note of simple suggestion and understanding that many people that *DELETED* with this technology don’t have the financial resources for the high end parts, don’t be afraid to modify the VIC to suit your economy. As I said earlier, you can use a high MFD capacitor at the end of the circuit to achieve some outstanding results in distilled water. You can use a PWM ($30.00), a bridge rectifier ($5.00) 2 blocking diodes ($3.00) and a 708-850 MFD 125VAC motor capacitor ($10 to $20) and get great results in pure water with no electrolyte. Once you see this, since seeing is truly believing, you’ll know you’re on the right track and will save the money and buy the proper parts.
Please, no more jackass videos of some *DELETED* in his garage performing bullshit electrolysis using 30 amps. I’m so sick and tired of the moronic mentality ruining an already tainted image of HHO technology. You can produce far more HHO with 0.5 amps and some creative electronics than you ever will with brute force ampacity that generates nothing but HEAT! I’m also far the *DELETED* fed up with idiots selling garbage rigs on the net, selling them as hybrid cells and ultimately suckering all the *DELETED* that buy them into putting a god damn bomb under the hoods of their cars. *DELETED*!!
Go get a clue and understand what the hell you are doing before putting some stupid redneck bullshit under your hood.
And to the naysaying *DELETED* of the do nothing and pedantic scientific community who’s possibilities are limited by the knowledge found in a book, *DELETED*! You people have zero vision and lack any understanding of how REAL PROGRESS is achieved. You pseudo-debunking *DELETED* think you have all the answers, while in fact, you fail to understand that progressive science does NOT come from a textbook. You’re the same people that have to cheat the Nine Dots puzzle with a google search because you truly cannot think outside of the box.
I have personally constructed my own modified version of what Stan Meyer, Dave Lawton, Bob Boyce, Ravi and many others have achieved, which seems impossible at first glance, but when you see it and witness it first hand, you won’t sleep for a week! You will be so utterly flabbergasted by the illogical performance of this device happening in front of you, that you will practically piss your pants in delight. Build the device PROPERLY, measure the output and then come back and tell me it’s bullshit, at which point you cannot and will not.
Either do it, or do not. Just because YOU may not be able to wrap your silly your little mind around this technology and get it to work doesn’t mean that others have not. I don’t care how many PhD’s you have hanging on your wall from MIT. If you’re too *DELETED* stupid to get this technology, it’s your problem, not mine.
hi
may i have your website / email id
i am interested in your pwm square wave high frequency.
may i??
anyhow my mail is
tirthwires at rate of yahoo dot com
regards
sk jain
Nine_Dots,
That tirade of comments is uncalled for, the language is uncalled for, and wont happen again.
I left the meat of the comment as the basic content is correct, but…..
This site is mainly to help people get started, and understand the basics, and will get into the more advanced areas as the site grows.
For now, these people/readers just want to save fuel!!
and that can be done with these simple HFE cells, no expensive electronics, just cheap, working cells….
As you’ll notice there are no links to retailers here, several have asked but failed to meet my requirements that I asked of them.
All links such as the one you had to some politicians site, that has links to SELL HHO units and electronics, are deleted. I refuse to link to any site that has no warranty for operation and materials, of the unit and fails to give any type of warranty as to the results to expect of the unit.
That said, I realize there are many models of vehicles and engines available for these to be used on, but if installed properly this unit XXX when installed on an engine ranging from xxxx cc to xxxx cc will get a minimum of 5% increase or your money back.
The same with electronics, say even a MAP Enhancer should be warranted ‘with proper installation’ that the MAP unit will not be damaged beyond reasonable wear and tear, for 30 days, and that the wiring is sufficient for the current being carried and will not damage the computer.
If your willing to help here and get people started using distilled water, why not be really helpful and put up or shut up! Send some open source prints for the electronics and make yourself available for Q&A. I can solder kits, and such, and have a basic understanding, beyond that, we need your help.
If your not willing to help these people understand and learn the best way, you have no right to call anyone a moron, when you can not or will not teach them!
LoL, again,…the politcian I stumbled across has a few links to sites that sell a few things, but the main focus for even linking to his site is that he is the only politician I’ve ever seen backing HHO. He also has huge stacks of very valuable and very important information located here:
http://www.johnnyk4congress.com/hhotech.html
You want open source? Well, it doesn’t get more open source than that.
As for the profanity, yeah, sorry. I get really tired of the garbage on the internet being passed off as HHO technology. So I get a little passionate about the topic, sure.
Anyway, I am not posting here to talk specifically about cars. My reason was about the specifics of the technology and that people need to be careful with what they are dealing with. They should also know damn well they are producing. The redneck rigs producing toxic gas will just ruin your rig, your car and waste your money.
As for expensive electronics, I already spelled out a very cheap alternative approach in my previous post. Use the motor capacitor and you’ll be able to get nice production in pure water at about 5 to 6 amps. Another thing is the great reduction in heat.
Anyway, before you go stripping the links from my post, I suggest you take a closer look at the technology page first. I don’t know the Johnny K guy, but he is the only one in Washington even talking about this stuff and has REAL information on his site about it.
OK, I’ll give you that there are links to good info at his site. And Yes there are dangers that I constantly point out to the readers, and yes there are units that are a waste of money, that’s why I don’t have links to sites that sell these units.
And as far as open source, I’ve read in many, many forums that the PWM prints dont work, that there’s parts left out, misconnections, etc. and given many excuses as to why this is.
Your directions would probably mean something to an electrical engineer, or other electrical professional, but how many other people that read here or elsewhere on the net, including myself could even follow your description?? and practically apply it??
If you’ve built a working unit, why not share a set of wiring diagrams and parts list?
As for assembling it, I can do that from prints, but adjusting it…..Probably have to go to the local community college and see if I could talk someone into doing that, and I’d better have a good description of what I need to do. Maybe even find a Ham radio operator that has the scope, if not, then am I not up the creek, without a paddle??
And the biggest part I did not like, is the cost of the units if available for purchase, the coil I’ve seen built for the unit is $150.00, and the unit itself is over $500.00. I have never checked a parts list at Allied for assembly, but this seems steep, especially when the unit said it still needed to be adjusted so have access to a scope. And thats not including the cell, hook up, and misc parts!
Cripes, for that kind of money, you can get your rig converted to propane! You can buy 167 gals of gas at todays price! that would last me 20-25 weeks just for work, thats hard to justify!
So there you have it, why so many of us are looking at the simpler brute force methods and cells.
Can you help with prints and stuff for a replica of your working unit? if so email them to me and I’ll get em posted.
Or let me know if you want to be a contributor and field the questions in a dedicated thread.
I can understand why people go brute force and lack the electrical background to play the electronics game. However, most of the PWM schematics on the http://www.overunity.com/ site may be a little messed up, and that’s because much of it is purely experimental. Yet, there are simple PWM timers you can buy on Ebay for around $30.00 to $40.00, just do a search for PWM and you’ll see. I have bought some of these just to see how well they work in order to not have to bench my own.
As for the Torroid and other electronics, you can rape a lot of junk electronics around the house and get most of what you need. I constructed my first experiments with 100% cannibalized parts. Yeah, it takes a lot of time to carefully desolder parts from PCBs, but the pay-off is worth it.
When considering your electrodes, it truly doesn’t make all that much difference what you use to start with as long as it’s stainless steel. I was able to go to my local scrap metal buyer and asked them if they had any stainless steel plate metal. They had some junk that was ripped from an old kitchen, so I bought the whole lot for 20% more than what the scrap yard paid.
By the way, it was nasty stuff and I had to spend a few hours cleaning it up before I could start cutting it up and using it for plate designs. After you cut your plates and drill press or punch your holes, be sure to use a sand blaster instead of sand paper. If you don’t have access to a sand blaster, then it looks like you’re doing things the hard way. Sand blasters do a much nicer job on roughing your plates.
So that is how I was able to put my base rig together with recycled junk. It took a lot of time, but I paid out under $100.00 for everything except the actual containment system. You’ll have to determine you’re own containment based on your needs. My needs were to prove a point that this can be done, so my containment was expensive. The reason I went with high end containment and junk electronics was I knew the containment would be reusable for all my experiments and the junk parts would be disposable and sacrificial throughout the course of development.
With all that said, a basic parts list for everything except containment, gas distribution and everything else not related to the actual electrical side is up to you. Be creative and use whatever you like so long as you take great care to consider that the gas being produced can be explosive.
My early experiments were in a 5 gallon bucket with a sealed lid,….bad idea. A small group of us were fooling around with the rig and thought it would be a good idea to light the output. We had no check valve in place at the time and the rig went off like a massive bomb. Luckily, the explosion was directed skyward like a mortar and blew the lid into the ceiling of the shop. Nobody was hurt, but we learned a valuable lesson: Positive pressure and a check valve is a must for any rig you intend to produce a constant flame from.
Anyway, here is a basic parts list for the electronics. This list will get you to the point of using nothing but distilled water and about 5 to 6 amps. This is what I call the quick dirty Stan Meyer design, but it will suit your HHO Hybrid Injector needs and not produce a lot of heat. Keep in mind that this approach is not the advanced method, but this will get you what you need for now.
Here’s the list:
For the capacitor use any of these
1 – ;1000uf 50v (Radio Shack – $2.59)
or
1 – 708uf to 850uf 125VAC to 165VAC
(take it off an old motor control if you have access)
or
(You can rape this from an old ATX power supply)
680uf 200v
For the PWM, use one of the 30a 12v-24v dual transistor DC motor controls you can find all over Ebay. Expect to spend between $30.00 to $40.00. This should be the most expensive part.
1 – >GBPC3506 35A 600V bridge recitfier
(You can buy these on Ebay as well for next to nothing)
or
1 – >GBPC3504 35A 50V bridge rectifier
(You can pick one of these up at Radio Shack for about 3 bucks I think. I’ve burned through so many, I really can’t remember anymore, but I know they’re not very expensive.)
For your plates, I wouldn’t exceed 6 plates, 3 negative and 3 positive and no larger than 4″ squares.
That’s it, all the parts you need to go quick and dirty in pure distilled water. Hooking this stuff up is pretty simple.
First, connect the positive and negative leads to input the input and output of the PWM. Use about 6 inch leads.
Then, connect the output leads from the PWM to the ~ AC symbols of the Recifier. Notice the ~ marking these on the Recifier.
Then, from the +/- of the rectifier, connect to your capacitor. If you use a motor capacitor you can ignore +/-. If you use the smaller capacitors, make sure negative is to minus and positive to plus.
Then, from the positive and negative of the capacitor, also connect the leads to your electrodes.
Now you’re ready to hook it up. You can use a 12vdc power supply, a battery charger or hell, even a battery. They all work just fine. Also, be sure to fill your rig with only fresh water and NO BAKING SODA!! If you use baking soda you’ll fry these parts.
When you turn on the unit, there will be a few second delay as the capacitor is charging. Also, be sure to turn your PWM up to about 2/3 way, maybe a little higher. Then, you’l notice your production looks as if you’re using baking soda and you get pretty nice production. Then, if you have a way to measure amps, you should see you’re using about 5 to 6 amps.
As a final note, this will get you off of baking soda and ruined rigs. You’ll also notice you don’t produce extensive heat. While this isn’t the best way, it is the most affordable.
On last thing, having an Oscilloscope is really a good idea. These days you can get hand held scopes for about $150.00. If you’re going to do a lot of research in this area, I suggest getting one. You can look at a good scope here:
http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2544/.f
I will post more advanced material later as I get my own HHO free information site built.
Good luck!
when your website on net?
can you give me the final pwm ?
regards
Thanks for the info !
this will make it easier for many to go this route with a PWM.
On question, does the pwm work when using Neutral plates??
And just for clarity, your saying those PWM’s aren’t complete, or work better with the rectifier and capacitor?
Hi Dave,
I haven’t tried this method with neutral plates, so I cannot say for sure. My primary objective was to have all plates active, create little heat and use no electrolyte. It may work with neutral plates, but I’m not certain.
Just for clarity on the PWM, the PWM modules are standalone DC motor controls and are complete for what they are. They will produce a square wave for you and that wave will be able to cross the rectifier and capacitor almost unchanged. Depending on which PWM you buy from Ebay, you may need a knob for the pot and a project box to mount it in, but other than that, they are complete. I personally use Maxx Tronic as it is a solid PWM with heavy duty assembly that can withstand 30 amps.
A note I forgot to mention is that heat sinking the rectifier is a good idea. If you don’t sink it, it may burn out with prolonged use. I mounted mine on a sink in the same project box with the PWM and installed a fan to keep everything cool. Also, if you use one of the smaller capacitors, they get warm as well. So basically, ripping a fan from an old PC or power supply does the job just fine.
As for a little clarity on all these other PWM modules being sold across the internet such as Dave Lawton’s and Bob Boyce’s, these devices were designed by these guys for THEIR specific needs. So when someone spends $200+ on one of these units they need to understand what they are getting. If you don’t follow their plans to a significant degree, you probably won’t get the results you want.
This is why the cheap DC motor controls work best for my particular application because that’s the way I designed it to work. As I said, my primary goal was to go low cost fresh water and produce low heat at low amp draw. What’s happening with my poor man approach is very similar to Stan Meyer’s except that I am not forcing a pulse train onto electrodes and making them a capactior. What I’m doing is stacking a real electrolytic capacitor and forcing it to discharge onto the electrodes. The square wave allows me to stack fast with subtle spiking and the rectifier keeps the discharge off my PWM and forcing to the only place it can go, the water.
Nine_Dots,
Assuming that the Maxx Tronic pwm is a recommendation, and checking their site, one of their distributors, bakatronics.com sells the MX066 which from what I can tell is the unit your talking about. They also sell a frequency modifing kit (MX033-66 Freq Adjuster) and kit box for each.
Also be aware their is a warning about a LX066 sold on ebay, as its not their unit.
If this assumption is wrong, I’ll remove the link to these units.
I added links to the parts at Allied Electronics, since Radio shack doesn’t seem to have those exact parts. hope this helps everyone.
Hi Dave,
I’ve used both the ones from the Bakatronics site and the ones on Ebay. They appear to be identical in every way, right down to the solder technique used. So, the Ebay seller must be a real Maxx Tronic distributor. I’ve surged both Bakatronic and the Ebay version with 26 amps and they both held up just fine. Maybe Bakatronics just doesn’t like the Ebay competition, I don’t know. Either way, Bakatronics is a little less expensive.
Also, the same frequency adjuster kit you found on Bakatronics can be found on Ebay. If you’re going to use that kit to tweak your frequency to 11Khz, be forewarned that you’ll need some electronics experience to do it. You have to desolder a few pins from the 555 Timer socket and use jumpers to the Frequency Adjuster. Not a beginner project at all since desoldering takes a fair amount of practice and tooling.
Basically, it’s all the same stuff no matter where you get it from and I’ve had nothing but success with both dealers. I don’t know how you want to handle it from here, but that’s my review.
In regards to the 1000uf 50v capacitor, I bought mine in store at the local Radio Shack for $2.59. You have to bypass the tards that come at you when you enter the store and head straight to the component cabinet. It’s usually near the rear of the store and buried, but it’s there. It looks like a stack of drawers with labels for chokes, pots, inductors, diodes, caps and all the other junk they used to be primary distributors of. Now Radio Shack still carries a fair selection of this stuff, but nowhere near what they used to sell back in the 70s and 80s.
One last note, stay away from the 15a and under PWMs. While the total load of your circuit using my method won’t ever climb past 8 to 10 amps in the worst scenario, you want to be well overrated on all your components for long term use.
There is a little thing called “continuous load” that means any device running 3 hours or longer must be rated at 125% of the total load. So if you’re fooling with a rig that draws 12 amps when you turn it on, in much less than 3 hours it will reach ambience and the load will climb to 15 amps. This is why I overrate everything I use in order to avoid burnout. A load of 5 to 6 amps, even at ambience, is still only 6.25 to 7.5 amps. That said, a device rated for 30a runs nice and cool while a 15a device with the same load is hot enough to burn you if touched.
Hi, I read you intersesing article I have a question, the point at which you connect the bridge rectifier to a motor capacitor instead of a smaller one is not clear where to connect? can you explain. Thanks! Joe martinez.joe1961@yahoo.com
Hello All,
Thanks Nine_Dots for all the info.!!
I have been using the Maxx Tronic 30a PWM with a modified ‘Smacks Booster’ so rushed out and bought the GBPC3504 and 1000uF 63v capacitor to see what results I could get. I followed your instructions carefully and replaced the ‘Electrolyte’ with deionised water but couldn’t get any production at all. I guess it is due to the neutral plates?? When I get some more time I’ll mod the internal wiring and have another go.
Has anyone else had any results with Nine_Dots suggestion??
PHodgson,
Just out of curiosity, did you try a min amount of catalyst before rewiring?
And how many Neutral plates between + & – ?
DATA and More DATA
I use about a teaspoon of Sodium Hydroxide in the cell usually and get about 0.75 l/min at 20a. I use the PWM just to control the current to avoid overheating. I didn’t use any catalyst when trying Nine_Dots electrics, just deionised water.
The plate configuration is:
+nnnnnn–nnnnnn+
i.e. 8 cells
I also use platic insulating ‘sheets’ between each cell to keep unwanted current draw to a minimum.
Every N plate reduces output but cuts down on heat, try 3 N plates, +NNN-NNN+NNN-, I’ll bet your production doubles, @ about 15a, so lower the catalyst to get there. Keep track of amount per quart or Liter and amp draw at each level so you can fine tune the catalyst.
Try a dry cell type if possible, it gets rid of the voltage leaking on the edges.
Just curious about the plastic sheeting between plates, is it porous?
Thanks for the info! I’ll give it a try when I get some time.
The platic sheets are not porous, they are just thin sheets of plastic about 1″ larger all the round than the cell plates. I put them between the cells to try and cut down on unwanted current draw through the electrolyte from one cell to another.
what difference do you see when using the plastic sheets and not using the sheets? amp change?, output change?
And are they separated from the plates an equal space?
is it set up like this +sNsNsNs-sNsNsNs+sNsNsNs- or like this +NNN-s-NNN+s+NNN-? (s is the plastic sheet)
the reason I ask is plastic is an electric insulator and I’m curious whats being insulated? or just seperating H from O during plate production.
Hello to Nine_Dots. Interesting info & how to. Greatly apreciated. Was wondering what is your prodution rate?
dear nine dots:
well i am not to electronically inclined. but i am a great designer and i have designed a huge stan cell. it will have about 35 feet of tubing i was wondering if nine can help design a circuit that could power this cell i have 50 extra amps out of my new performance alternator that i can spare. i would defiantly be willing to pay you for you work. i have done a lot of studying and talked to a lot of people and they all want to use alot of amps with 12 or more volts i did find one guy out of bc that was gonna help me but he wants 300 for his unit it will run my cell at 3 volts and up to 40 amps and he uses a bifilar coil. when i studyed other peoples work on stan meyers they say that water is used as a die electric medium in a electrical resonate circuit. but it wasnt because of the blocking diode. they say that they charge up the capacitor so much that the water has a catastrophic die electric failure. at that point all the volts are converted to amps as it shorts out internally and utterly destroys the water it moves threw and creates massive amounts of hydrogen and oxygen. so all of this is a different language to me the more i learn the more i understand it. i really think 9 has it, he knows what he is doing and i think he could really help me and possibly a lot of other people. it really sucks that u cant really buy what u need online. well u can buy it separately but u need to know how to put it all together. which i dont understand electronics i am really considering taking a few courses on electronics just to understand but i would rather remain more able to build very safe containment units that just will never allow a back flash in it at high pressures. please 9 help me i could really use a break.
matt
We have a hydro-cell now using less than one amp and which can be chain linked (like battery cells): it has achieved an increase in petrol/diesel consumption of 60% and with adding the magnetohydrodynamic principle has achieved even better results.
Being able to be retro-fitted to any engine, we feel this is a good short to medium term solution until the water source engine takes centre stage.
If anyone can suggest anything once our website is back up and running, any help would be greatly appreciated.